I've been eyeing the tilly and the buttons nell dress for a while now, and I finally sat down at my machine to see if it lives up to the hype. If you've spent any time in the sewing community online, you know that Tilly's patterns are basically the gold standard for clear instructions and cute, wearable designs. Nell is no exception, but it definitely has a few quirks that are worth talking about before you cut into your favorite fabric. It's that classic smock-style dress that seems to be everywhere right now—very "cool art teacher" meets "weekend brunch," which is exactly the vibe I'm going for these days.
What Makes the Nell Dress Stand Out?
The first thing you notice about the Nell dress is its versatility. It's not just one dress; it's a bit of a "choose your own adventure" situation. You've got options for a regular collar or a ruffled one, different sleeve lengths, and the choice between a mini or midi length with tiered skirts.
The silhouette is definitely oversized. If you aren't into the "big dress" energy, this might feel a bit daunting at first. However, the way the bodice is constructed gives it just enough structure so you don't feel like you're wearing a literal tent. The button-down front is probably my favorite feature. It adds a bit of a "polished" look to an otherwise very relaxed garment. Plus, it gives you a chance to show off some fancy buttons you've been hoarding in a jar for three years.
Picking the Right Fabric
Choosing the right fabric for your tilly and the buttons nell dress is arguably the most important step. Because there is so much volume in the skirt tiers and the sleeves, the "drape" of your fabric will completely change the final look.
If you go with something structured, like a crisp cotton poplin or a lightweight denim, the dress is going to stand out quite a bit. You'll get those really dramatic, puffy balloon sleeves and a skirt that holds its shape. It's a very modern, editorial look. On the other hand, if you choose a viscose (rayon) or a lightweight linen blend, the dress will hang much closer to the body. It'll feel swishy and soft.
I went with a mid-weight linen for my first version. It's breathable and easy to sew, but I did find that the ruffles on the collar stood up a bit more than I expected. If I were to make it again for a summer wedding, I'd definitely reach for a floral viscose challis to give it that effortless, flowy movement. Just a heads up: if you're using something slippery like silk or rayon, take your time with the buttonholes. A bit of stabilizer will save you from a lot of frustration.
Let's Talk About the Sizing
Tilly and the Buttons uses a numerical sizing system (1 through 15), which is pretty standard for their brand. One thing to keep in mind with the Nell dress is the amount of ease. "Ease" is just a fancy way of saying how much extra room is built into the garment beyond your actual body measurements.
Since Nell is a smock dress, there is a lot of ease in the waist and hips. When you're looking at the size chart, pay the most attention to your high bust and full bust measurements. That's where the fit actually matters. If the shoulders and bust fit well, the rest of the dress will generally fall into place.
I've seen some makers size down because they were worried about being overwhelmed by the fabric, but be careful with that. If you size down too much, you might find the armscye (the armhole) becomes too tight or the bodice gets a bit restrictive. If you're between sizes, I'd suggest sticking to the size that matches your bust and then maybe narrowing the skirt tiers if you want less "poof."
Dealing with the Gathers
If there's one thing you need to prepare yourself for with this pattern, it's the gathering. Between the tiered skirt and the sleeve heads, you're going to be sewing a lot of long basting stitches.
I'll be honest: gathering can be a bit of a chore. My best advice is to use three rows of gathering stitches instead of the usual two. It gives you way more control and results in much neater, more even pleats. Also, don't rush the process of evening out the gathers around the bodice. There's nothing worse than finishing a dress only to realize all the ruffles are bunched up on the left side while the right side is flat.
Another little tip for the tilly and the buttons nell dress tiers? Use a different color thread in your bobbin for your gathering stitches. It makes it so much easier to identify which strings to pull when you're standing over a mountain of fabric. It's the little things that keep us sane, right?
Those Famous Buttonholes
Buttonholes are the final boss for many sewists. The Nell dress requires quite a few of them, depending on which version you're making. If the idea of your machine chewing up your almost-finished dress makes you sweat, you aren't alone.
Before you touch the actual dress, do a couple of practice runs on a scrap of your project fabric. Make sure you include the same interfacing you used on the dress placket so the thickness is identical. If your machine is being temperamental, sometimes a "fray check" liquid or a bit of wash-away stabilizer on top of the fabric can help the buttonhole foot glide more smoothly.
And hey, if you really hate buttonholes, you could technically sew the placket shut and just add the buttons as decorative elements on top. Since the dress is so roomy, you might be able to pop it over your head without needing the opening, but definitely check the measurements before you commit to that shortcut!
Styling Your Finished Nell
Once you've finally snipped the last thread, the fun part starts. The tilly and the buttons nell dress is surprisingly easy to style for different seasons.
In the summer, it's great with some simple leather sandals and a straw bag. Because it's so breezy, it's the perfect thing to wear when it's boiling hot outside but you still want to look put-together. When the weather turns, I love layering mine. You can throw a chunky knit cardigan over the top or even a turtleneck underneath.
I've seen some people wear the midi version with chunky boots and a leather jacket, which gives it a bit of an edge and balances out the "sweetness" of the ruffles. It's also very "legging-friendly" if you make the mini version.
Final Thoughts on the Build
Overall, sewing the Nell dress is a really satisfying project. It's not a "one-hour make," mostly because of the sheer volume of fabric and the detail in the collar and placket. However, Tilly's instructions walk you through every step so clearly that even if you've never sewn a collar before, you'll probably find it surprisingly manageable.
It's a pattern that rewards patience. If you take the time to finish your seams nicely—maybe even try some French seams on the skirt tiers since they're straight lines—you'll end up with a garment that feels really high-end.
Every time I wear my tilly and the buttons nell dress, someone asks where I bought it. There's no better feeling than saying, "Thanks, I made it!" while secretly knowing how much effort went into those perfectly even gathers. Whether you're a seasoned pro or a confident beginner looking to level up, this pattern is definitely a solid addition to any sewing library. Just make sure you have plenty of bobbin thread ready!